FOREST FIRES IN THE WEST: SUMMER OF 2002 [HUNTER GRAY JUNE 23, 2002] UPDATED SUBSTANTIALLY AT SEVERAL POINTS INTO 2011 -- NEW MATERIAL ON THE LIFE OF A FIRE LOOKOUT [COMPILED 2009]

BEAR MOUNTAIN FIRE
LOOKOUT [Apache National Forest, Arizona]. I spent the
entire Summer of 1960 in solitary, reflective, and very pleasant isolation
'way up there -- many trail miles indeed from the Blue River and the nearest
[rudimentary dirt] road. My small cabin was close to the base of the tower.
I had a wood cooking stove and two white gas Coleman lanterns. The Lookout
itself was equipped with a large, short-wave radio. Hunter Bear

HUNTER GRAY [HUNTER BEAR] RIGHT AFTER BEAR MOUNTAIN [AUGUST 1960]
FOREST FIRES AND A VERY LONG CONVERSATION [HUNTER BEAR] JUNE 11 2011
"Most of the places we know on the Apache [National Forest] are gone now," said the voice of my old friend, Joe Janes, during a long phone conversation yesterday. "My daughter in Silver City [N.M.] keeps me pretty well up to date on it." Joe, about ten years older than I, a World War II vet and trained in anthropology, is among my very oldest friends, We did a lot of Forest Service work together, starting 'way back -- first on the Coconino National Forest out of Flagstaff and later at the Alpine Ranger District on the Apache. Later, he transferred to the U.S. Park Service but we've always been in touch. He and his wife live now near the western Washington coast in the rain forest. [Our early drinking escapades and related matters are outlined in http://hunterbear.org/reminiscence.htm
JUNE 6 2011: ALPINE, ARIZONA [HUNTER BEAR]
UPDATE NOTE BY HUNTER BEAR: [NOVEMBER 3 2007]
Given the sad events of this fall and our preceding
summer, there is a good deal of broad interest in Western forest/brush fire
situations. While a few may have seen our large webpage on the general
situation, most probably have not. That Link follows. I personally tend to
write primarily -- whatever the topic -- from direct personal experience and
observation. Much of my life has been spent in Western mountain country and
I do know a good deal first-hand about fighting forest fires. While I don't
know much at all about the western California situations, I am aware that
extremely rapid expansion of the human population into heavily timbered
and/or brushy regions -- almost in a crazy-quilt quasi-checkerboard fashion
-- is a part of the problem faced there. But there are others, perhaps more
unique to that specific region than, say, Northern Arizona or Idaho or
Montana or New Mexico. Some years ago, one of my oldest friends -- and, in
the old days, a long-time colleague in direct forest fire fighting -- was
sent from Northern Arizona into a California situation. He has described it
to me many times as the most chaotic experience he ever had fighting fire --
extremely poor and confused inter-agency coordination and a frequent lack of
"outdoors" experience by many of the ostensible fire fighters who often came
from purely urban backgrounds. [Of course, a few of these recent California
situations have, as they've gone along, become "urban fires" as well.] In
the mess of some years ago described by my friend -- yet again as recently
as a phone conversation a few weeks ago -- that crisis was solved only when
another old friend of both of us from Northern Arizona -- a highly
experienced fire dispatcher, fire boss, and fire fighter generally was
rushed into that California mess as the top operational commander. In fast
due course, that took care of things.
Anyway, here is our website page.
Although the following attached piece was written a few years ago, we have had a purely terrible brush and forest fire season in this Intermountain region. [The Southwest has been somewhat spared this time around.] From late spring virtually to the present, Idaho and Utah and Montana and environs have had varying degrees of drought [especially hereabouts] and so many fires [caused by humans and "dry lightning"] that, coupled with various felony crimes, most of our local news has focused on those topics only. We are somewhat safe where we live but a friend of Eldri's, living close to Pocatello, had to evacuate when a fire came within fifty feet of her home -- the inferno was halted at that point.] Now we are getting some rain, accompanied by hard lightning which can hit anywhere fairly "high", often in areas tough to easily reach, and can quickly ignite more fires.
I was sixteen when I fought my first forest fire just west of my home town of Flagstaff, Arizona. A primary attraction of the upper western edge of town was Lowell Observatory which, at that altitude of over 7,000 feet, specialized in scrutiny of Mars. Both it and the whole town were in serious danger. A bit more on my baptism coming up. [The second fire I fought was soon thereafter, in a very remote area far north of town, much larger. It is that one where, after several days and nights of work, the fire became ostensibly -- ostensibly -- "contained" and I was shifted to cooking work ["bull cook"] in the large fire camp. It was there that, as the great fire broke out of its brief confinement, that the events discussed graphically in my later much published short story, "The Destroyers," transpired -- virulent anti-Black hatred in the context of very rapidly approaching Hell.
http://hunterbear.org/the%20short%20story.htm
But back to the first fire. Attracted by the challenge and one dollar an hour, a buddy and I, claiming the old age of 18, signed up together at the Coconino National Forest fire control center on the edge of town -- but were split into different outgoing crews. I rode to the Fire War in the back of a bouncing truck, accompanied by World War Two vets who swapped stories centered on how remiscent all of this was of military combat. Once at our destination, a foreman handed us each a Kordick [large rake/hoe] and a full canteen. "Keep your fire-lines wide and keep the Goddamned thing from spreading," he barked.
That was the sole instructional training we received. [In time, recalling that, I recognized the solidity in the veterans' comment often given young men facing imminent and dangerous challenges in other settings: "You won't learn anything from me that you won't learn there after ten minutes." I found myself working with a friendly young Latvian immigrant, only a little older than I, who was slightly crippled. He gave his name as Erik but knew no English. Later the two of us were joined by Loren, a 20 year old cowboy from the Prescott, Arizona region who was passing through town and felt obliged to lend his efforts. Although some years later, the Forest Service required fighters to wear hard-hat helmets, Loren and I had widebrimmed Stetsons which were useful in shielding us from burning embers and, placed over our faces when needed, helped somewhat on the often choking smoke. Erik had no hat of any kind but Loren and I shared ours with him. We worked an 18 hour shift; then, after four hours of sleep and some food, went back for another. The town and the observatory were saved -- barely.
And my fire career was launched. I still have an old, brown Stetson with the charred evidence of partially burned holes. As I followed my Star, there were guys who were killed and others injured in varying degrees -- usually seriously -- but I was lucky. I did almost burn up a couple of times, however -- once in 1956 on a very large fire in the pine forests well to the south of Winslow, Arizona. There, working steadily along, I was deserted by a panicky fire crew and its foreman and barely made it through the flaming trees to relative safety.
Cowboying and coal mining -- and mining in general -- are all innately and extremely dangerous. Anyone with any savvy at all about brush and forest fire control will put that 'way up high with those. When I started in 1950, at sixteen [ostensibly eighteen], the horror of the 1949 Mann Gulch Fire in the Helena National Forest, Montana, hovered over the entire Mountain West. There, thirteen young men died -- essentially close together. Norman Maclean, a fine writer and a great Westerner, wrote a hell of a good book about that colossal tragedy, "Young Men and Fire." My son, John, gave it to me on my birthday, 1993.
Strongly recommended. H.
FOREST FIRES IN THE WEST: SUMMER OF 2002 [HUNTER GRAY JUNE 23, 2002]
Written as Hell rips through the White Mountain country -- bearing down on the small towns I remember well.
I have a few reasonably salient thoughts
on the Western forest fire situation which I'll get to in a moment or
so. I know about some things -- and forest fires are high on that list.
It's personally extremely hard for me to view, even via cushioned
television, the massive forest fire destruction now underway in much of
the drought-tortured West -- including my native Northern Arizona. I
certainly know about forest fires. I wasn't too far at all into my
teens when I often began claiming that I was 18 -- and the legal age to
fight forest fires. The US Forest Service in those days was casual and
informal and, even though various officials knew full well how old I
really was [some were the fathers of friends of mine], no sweat
whatsoever. I was a big, tough and committed kid and that was enough.
In that epoch I fought many forest fires and, eventually, was promoted
into very important and isolated mountain-top fire lookout/radio work
when I was still 17. And occasionally, in the ensuing years of full
adulthood, I fought forest fires as a volunteer at various points. And I
served as full-time fire lookout/radio man in the summer of 1960 on one
of the most isolated lookouts in the entire West: Bear Mountain,
Apache National Forest, on the Arizona/New Mexico border. I'm good with
an axe or a shovel, a Pulaski [axe/hoe], a McLeod or Kordick [hoe/rake]
-- or a crosscut or a chain-saw. I know back-fire burning. And I know
dynamite. It's been awhile -- but, living where we do right now in
Southeastern Idaho -- we're always alert this time of year.
But what's going on in Northeast Central Arizona -- around Heber and
Lakeside and Show Low and other little towns, in the White Mountain
country -- is the worst by far and away that any living person has seen
in that region. There has never been anything like this: at this point
[Sunday afternoon], over 300,000 acres have burned, around 30,000 people
have been forced from their homes in a half-dozen towns, and there's no
simply no end in sight. Not too many years ago, my parents and a
brother owned land in the Lakeside region and I had nieces and nephews
near Show Low. I certainly have friends right there, right now.
If there's any rainy season in the future of this hideous Southwestern
drought, it's still several weeks off -- and it'll be preceded by much
"dry lightning" which always plays fire hell in the woods during these
periods.
It takes literally hundreds of years for cedars and junipers and pinon
pines and the much bigger Ponderosa [Yellow] pines to grow to maturity
in the always dry Southwest. Takes only a minute to destroy one --
leaving simply a burned out, black shaft.
I've heard, since I was a child, the on-target talk about "too damn many
people" coming into the West. That's true -- but inevitable. And some
[certainly not all for sure] big city types -- whatever the longevity of
their Western residence -- are careless, ignorant people. And it's also
true, to an extent, that the forests long ago became over-protected from
every fire to the point that fires often become intense and
high-reaching and super-destructive in the resultant, comparatively
heavy underbrush. And this means that incredibly fast-moving tree-top to
tree-top crown fires are common -- in contrast to the very, very old
days when natural and simple and minimal ground fires simply cleaned and
cleared on a regular basis without destroying any trees.
Arm-chair strategizing in a horrific situation like this is usually very
questionable. But I do have these few nagging thoughts based on a good
deal of fire fighting experience.
In the old days -- back when I was always ostensibly 18 -- we were all
highly skilled in the basic use of fire tools. With the exception of an
occasional power-wagon water-tank vehicle when there was at least a
trace of a road, we worked only with those tools. We traveled in rough
and often very remote country -- quick acting ground troops who
generally moved on heavily booted feet but sometimes by horse or mule,
often ate military combat rations, drank from simple canteens. If there
were field radios, they were walkie-talkies. There were bulldozers in
some places -- but the only aircraft involved were very small planes
for spotting and directing purposes. [Smoke jumpers, much found even
back then in Montana and Idaho and the drier side of the Pacific
Northwest generally, were not utilized in our Southwest.]
Eventually, right around the end of the '50s, heavy tanker planes
carrying borate solution and related things -- and, in the Southwest,
based at Silver City, N.M. -- came into vogue. And sometimes dumping
chemicals appeared to replace the primary, quick initial reliance on
fast-moving "professional" ground crews.
At around this time, the Forest Service became much more internally
formalized. An initial indication was the insistence on a recruit
really being 18. Then, it became mandatory that one could no longer
wear his Stetson or whatever other wide-brimmed Western hat on a fire --
but had to wear a fairly heavy safety helmet. But there were far
heavier problems developing than those:
Even though the USFS District Rangers always had college degrees in
forestry, most Forest Service personnel had had no college at all --
and many still haven't. The District Rangers [and the just out of
forestry college Assistant District Rangers], recognizing the value of
hard-fought experience, didn't throw their weight around. They knew how
to listen.
In an old-time fire situation, it wasn't unusual for the Fire Boss to be
a veteran who'd traveled thousands of miles of fire-lines but who'd
never set foot inside a college of any kind. One of the great Fire
Legends in the Southwest was a Flagstaff man who had come West on
Highway 66 as a kid during the Depression, worked in the Civilian
Conservation Corps -- and eventually became Fire Dispatcher for the
Coconino National Forest. From him I learned much indeed -- and so did
the very great many others who were willing to listen.
But by the end of the '50s, the newly emerging Assistant District
Rangers in an increasingly formalized USFS -- who eventually became
District Rangers -- began to throw their weight around long before they
knew where it ought to be aimed and landing. They often missed, there
were heavy mess-ups, and much ill-will between these shave-tails and
the veterans. But, given the new ethos of form and structure, the
former prevailed.
And, even as that continued and became more and more institutionalized,
there was another related trend: chain-of-command bureaucratization. In
the Old Days, people weren't afraid to make quick, strategic decisions.
A Fire Boss didn't feel obliged to clear a basic decision -- e.g.,
wide-spread back-firing -- with officials based some distance away.
Sector bosses and crew bosses often made quick decisions on their own --
as did basic front-line troopers on the fire line itself. There was
solidarity and cohesion -- but not at the expense of individual
intuition and logic.
Do any of these negative strains -- those that emerged forty or so years
ago and are now securely embedded in USFS agency culture -- at all
responsible for the colossal and truly Hellish Arizona catastrophe
that's sweeping across the White Mountains and environs?
All I can say is this: It's been a prolonged period of far-flung
drought in that entire region -- maybe even unprecedented. But there've
been droughts before that have been pretty bad.
And the West has had too many people in it for a long time.
And the underbrush hasn't been piling up at any faster a rate than it
has since the beginning of the 20th Century.
And there were bad fires -- and big bad ones -- in My Time. But not
fires on the scope of these tremendous monsters. The Woods have not
changed. Nor has the nature of Fire.
But some things obviously have.
Yours, Hunter Gray [Hunter Bear]
________________________________________________________________
HUNTER GRAY [HUNTER BEAR]
ROUGH NOTES ON LOOKOUT LIFE --- FOR A YOUNGER FAMILY MEMBER [HUNTER BEAR FEBRUARY 15 2009]
http://hunterbear.org/the%20short%20story.htm
I have always been
what's called a "loner" -- tend to hunt and hike by
myself, spent days in the wilds with no one around. So I
was a natural for
the isolated work of a fire lookout. While some lookout
arrangements, I
should add, are constructed so one can live in them, most
have simply a
cabin at the base of the tower -- like Bear Mountain and
virtually all the
others. I usually had pretty simple food: tins of beef,
cans of peaches,
lots of coffee, cans of stew etc. Some bread -- but it
doesn't keep. I
could make biscuits with flour. At Bear Mtn, everything had
to be packed up
by mules; at Woody, there was a very rough road. All fire
lookouts have a
well for drinking and washing water, protected by a moveable
wooden cover
[to keep rodents, such as chipmunks, from falling in.] One
or twice a day
I'd lower a bucket. Outside-type latrines. A garbage pit--
and, on Bear
Mtn, a bear used to visit it at night.
One of the very first things a lookout has to do is
familiarize himself [or
herself in some cases] with the vast sweep of terrain: get
to know the lay
of the land, the place names of other mountains and ridges,
etc. Very soon,
one become extremely familiar with the geography -- to the
point that
anything unusual, such as a fire ["smoke"] jumps out. You
also have to
learn the established and safe smoke situations. On
Elden I knew the far-off route of a smoky logging train; on
Bear Mountain,
the copper smelter far, far to the south. Binoculars are a
must -- the
Forest Service provided Bushnell 10X. On Elden, I had a
large shortwave
radio and on Woody a walkie-talkie. Bear Mountain had a
very complex radio
system which I had no problem operating. Code numbers [10-4
etc] are used
in conversation. Woody had a kind of phone system -- No 9
wire strung via
pine trees and an old telephone. Elden at that time had no
phone. Bear
Mountain had a rudimentary phone system that started at
Alpine via No 9 wire
on pines and went many many miles south to the top of Bear
Mountain. In
between were a few ranchers. The phone was a ring-up
antique and the whole
phone "system" was very unreliable. I did the radio
consistently.
You also got to know some of the other lookouts. I always
had radio contact
with several in my vast region -- including, when I was on
Bear Mtn, two on
the Apache reservations 'way to the west.
I'd get up well before dawn in the morning and would go up
to the tower to
see if anything had happened during the night. Then, via a
wood stove, I'd
boil coffee, maybe fry some food or eat it cold from a can
-- and then go up
again for the day, coming down for very short moments
occasionally.
I had a few books on Bear Mtn, a couple of old friends type
Frank Dobie
books that actually focused on the general Bear Mtn region.
But I read only
sporadically and for very short periods because you had to
keep watching
constantly. The fire season fell into two time frames: the
first, when
there had been no rain, saw the danger as human
carelessness. The second,
weeks later, saw first "dry lightning" [no rain], then
lightning and some
rain, and then lightning and lots of rain. [I always took
"a reading" on as
many lightning strikes as I could and then checked that
setting out
regularly -- since, sooner [when dry] or later [when wet]
fires could
emerge. Sometimes, after a lightning storm, I'd go up in
the tower at
night. If lightning came when I was in my tower, I'd close
off the phone
switch and sit on a stool with rubber encasements on the
legs. Occasionally,
lightning would hit the towers but the metal is heavy.
When I spotted a smoke, I would make a quick effort to
determine if it was
simply dust or, after a rain, fog drifting out of a canyon.
But it's always
better to play safe. So, in some cases, I'd report a
possible smoke --
along with my reading and a good idea of the geographical
location.. On all
of these, definites and possibles, the fire dispatcher would
attempt to get
other readings from other lookouts to get a "string cross"
specific location
on the map.
White smoke meant a ground fire; black smoke meant that the
fire was burning
trees and had climbed into the pine tops. Crews would be
sent in as quickly
as possible -- sometimes on foot, sometimes on horseback or
mules. Our fire
region did not use smokejumpers -- but, at the end of my
Bear Mtn stint,
there was some dumping of borate solution on fires [planes
would come from
Silver City, NM]. But that never replaces the human fire
control crews.
We used the old, mostly metallic "fire-finder" --
metal circle with numbered
edges and moveable cross-hair sighting setup to pin fires [the old
Osborne.] It lay on a flat table.
[Hereabouts in our part of Idaho -- where there's much Bureau of Land Management
COMMENT [MARCH 23 2009]:
HUNTER
GRAY [HUNTER BEAR/JOHN R SALTER JR] Mi'kmaq /St. Francis
Abenaki/St. Regis Mohawk
Protected by NaŽshdoŽiŽbaŽiŽ
and Ohkwari'
I have always lived and worked in the Borderlands.
Our Hunterbear website is now eleven years old..
Check out
http://hunterbear.org/directory.htm
See - Personal and Detailed Background Narrative:
http://hunterbear.org/narrative.htm
See Outlaw Trail: The Native as Organizer:
http://hunterbear.org/outlaw_trail1.htm
[Included in Visions & Voices: Native American Activism
[2009]
See our substantial Community Organizing course
(with new material into 2011):
http://hunterbear.org/my_combined_community_organizing.htm